By Sami Malik*
In the long moments that divided a country into two, lives, dreams, families and parchments of history seemed to have been dissolved forever. In a dreadful storm of politics and the separation that followed, parts of land that belonged to the people were lost behind the lines. This is the rich history behind one of those sites: the myth, history and the significant character of the space that was created; and lost forever. If the “Taj Mahal” stands as a symbol of love for the world, “Pul Kanjri” has a similar status, if not less, for the people of Punjab. The hauntingly beautiful “Pul Kanjri”, situated a few kilometers away from the India-Pakistan border at Wagah, has an equally interesting story behind its existence.
Now reduced to a small outpost on the India – Pakistan border, the village in its glory days had much more to offer. It is reported to be an established travel halt frequented by Maharaja’s expeditions from Lahore to Amritsar and back, and Maharaja here refers to none other than Sher-e-Lahore Ranjit Singh. A ruinous pavilion, a bathing tank, and a trio of a gurudwara, a mosque and a temple, bear testimony to the historical significance of the place. Built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, as a bridge on a canal, while crossing the Ravi, “Pul Kanjri”, also called “Pul Moran”, was built as a symbol of love that Maharaja Ranjit Singh was said to have for Moran Sarkar.
Moran Sarkar was born in Muslim family at Makhanpure, 5 kilometres from Wahga border, Lahore and 35 kilometers from Amritsar. Moran was a Muslim dancing girl, who used to perform for Maharaja at the “Baradari” (a pavilion constructed for Maharaja) of Ranjit Singh, halfway between Amritsar and Lahore. It is said, once she was unable to cross the canal over Ravi and lost her silver footwear. She later refused to perform for him and that’s when he decided to build a structure that later became the abode for the star crossed lovers. “Pul Kanjri” was named as dancing girl were called “Kanjri” in Punjabi.
Woman and power have an amazing relationship, both attracted to each other. It was very much in the same tradition that we have the story of one of the most powerful women to have ever lived in Lahore. So impressed was Ranjit Singh by the beauty, skill and learning of Mai Moran, he decided that once he had established himself as a ruler of Lahore, he would marry her. And so it was that in 1802 he visited her and sought her hand in marriage. A year after he became the “Maharajah of Lahore” at the age of 21 years and was officially given a name of “Maharani Sahiba “. A gold coin was strucked on her name called “Moran Da Sikka” and hence the people of Lahore started calling her “Moran Sarkar”. She became a window to the common people who often brought their problems to her. She was considered to be very learned in arts and letters. She was known for her philanthropic act and bringing the Maharajah’s attention to many problems.
It was in Lahore, Mai Moran constructed a house for herself in Bazaar Choowk (Pappar Mandi). She requested the Maharajah to get her a beautiful mosque constructed next to her house. The Maharajah at Moran’s request built a mosque called “Masjid-e-Tawaifan”, which was renamed in 1998 as “Mai Moran Masjid” at Pappar Mandi, Lahore. She passed away in 1862 and was buried in Miani Sahib Graveyard near to Hazrat Tahir Bandagi’s Dargha. Along the bazaar the house of Mai Moran and her beautiful mosque still stand, testimony to the very intelligent and beautiful woman who once graced it.
This interesting story also has architectural links. Known for constructing forts, moats and castles, Maharaja Ranjit Singh helped to create many advancements in the technology and techniques of building construction. Like his other complexes, “Pul Kanjari” is admired for its simple design and layout, resilient materials and construction. Like other structures, the bulk of the structure is made of Nanakshahi bricks, having lesser width and thickness, allowing more detailed work to be done. This sets a sandy, dusky hue as the overtone for the place, fresco details can be seen in the exterior walls also. Maharaja Ranjit Singh, known for his progressive ideologies, made this space secular as well. The complex consists of a Shiva temple, the Sarovar (canal), a Baradari (a pavilion with 12 doors) and a Mosque. Though the Baradari is in ruins now, the other structures have been renovated, and are worth seeing to observe the character of such a space. His structures beamed with character, strength and the symbol of a lasting dynasty.
Ironically, this space should witness such violence, bloodshed and the tragedies associated with the partition. Pul Kanjri was captured by the Pakistani army during the Indo-Pak wars of 1965 and 1971, and was recaptured by the Indian Army later. On 18 Dec 1971, it was here at “Pul Kanjari”, that Lance “Naik (NK) Muhammad Mahfooz” of 15 Punjab Regiment heroically dashed onto the enemy, offering supreme sacrifice. A gallant action that would earn him the appreciation from the Commander of the opposing forces, and the award of “Nishan e Haider” by the Government of Pakistan.
It is the proximity of the place to the border area that has made it a lost part of history. The same soil that people rejoiced together once, got soaked in blood too, the war between religions that stood united in the same ground. A place almost too holy to supplicate, the nectar drained out of a space like this. Though it does not get the justice it deserves with its simplicity and yet genius in facade. “Pul Kanjari” is truly part of the history of Punjab that it never had the intention of creating, a hauntingly beautiful piece of architecture.
*The writer is MS in political Science and a PhD Scholar of Middle East History at Islamic International University, Islamabad – Pakistan.
Pul Kanjari- The Legend of “Pul” and “Moran Sarkar”
